The traditional installation method is for joiners to make door linings, which are fixed in the openings before walls are plastered, with the door leafs and furniture added at second fix.
However, the rise of doorsets has streamlined this process and when specifying multiple doors for a house, they are by far the quickest and easiest option.
They include the frame, pre-hung door leaf and essential ironmongery, all matched and either pre-drilled or pre-assembled in the factory to be delivered to site ready for installation.
As everything will be from one supplier, components will match and fit, and arrive at the same time, rather than creating hold ups waiting for parts from multiple sources. As the door components will already fit, no additional labour is required prior to installation, making it a simple process for both standard sizes and bespoke made-to-measure doorsets.
On a new build, a competant DIYer can install a doorset in an hour, but if renovating you may choose to leave some elements of the task for a professional for the best finish.
An open plan loft conversion can make better use of space than one divided up to form a landing with walls around it to form a fire protected staircase, especially where the staircase needs to land in the centre of the space because of the layout on the storey below.
The fire door seperating the additional storey from the rest of the property can be positioned at the foot of the stairs on the landing, instead of the top, with a small landing at the foot of the attic stairs at least as long as the width of the stairs.
In a Conservation Area alterations to the roof may not be permitted, especially increasing the existing ridge height.
Where a loft space is limited, a solution is to lower the ceiling in the storey below. This will add to costs compared to a standard conversion, as the existing floor/ceiling joists will need to be removed and replaced at a lower level, and a new plasterboard ceiling added to the storey below.
There is no minimum ceiling height required by Building Regulations, but the minimum practical ceiling height is 2.2-2.4m (2m in an attic room).
The maximum height that existing ceilings can be reduced by is usually dictated by the height of the window heads, although it is possible to form a box detail around the window heads, which will be incorporated within the eaves of the attic room.
This brilliant new trend was incorporated into three of this year’s award-winning homes.
Such a simple idea – concealed LED strips are positioned inside slits in a suspended ceiling – but the interplay of light and shadows make for a striking feature and cuts through an otherwise blank, minimalist ceiling.
Using modular construction methods, it is possible to add a loft conversion extension in little more than a day, decorated, carpeted and furnished.
As well as the ease and convenience, with minimal site disruption, factory controlled conditions allow the loft to be very well insulated and airtight, to maximise energy efficiency.
A Loft Pod recently designed and delivered a fully finished loft space by road, and crtaned it into place on a mid terrace Victorian House. The existing roof had been removed in rediness via a scaffold, and the loft was lifted carefully into place on steel brackets. A full scaffold during this work was thus avoided.
The pod was designed and built in less than four weeks, but the engineering calculations, the main structure was assembled in just one week.
The price varies per pod according to specifications but is in the region of £1,000.00 m2.
To ensure that the plot will be yours on receipt of planning permission, you need to get your solicitors to prepare a simple one or two page legal option, which requires the vendor to sell to you in the event of your planning application being successful.
It may require some payment, taht may be a couple of pounds, or it may be a larger sum. If it’s the latter it’s normally deducted from the price if the sale goes through. It will almost certainly be time limited too.
It may state the price if you’ve agreed it or it may leave that to a valuation at a future date.
Alternatively, if having visited the planners you’re absolutley convinced that it’ll get permission, you could agree to buy it and run up to exchange of contracts ‘subject to receipt of satisfactory planning permission’, that way, if things don’t go to plan and the application is refused, the contract will void and you’ll get your deposit back.
What you wont get back in either of these circumstances is the costs of preparing the plans and making the application. It’s a gamble. So make sure that you make the right enquiries with the planners and that you take the correct message away – not just the one that you want to hear.